Blog Archive
Monday, July 26, 2010
Île de Ré.
The house that Jennifer and Luis procured for us was old in all the right places. Fully updated baths and kitchens, but still with exposed original beams and floors; arched doorways and heavy wooden doors. My bedroom and bathroom must have been designed by a genius with a heart for either the single aunt, au pair or nanny. To access, one had to walk down a hall [with a door to close], through the laundry room [with a door to close], and into my suite [with another door to close]! What a wonderful sound barrier from a 3 month-old, 2 year old and 3.5 year old! The room was decorated with a good combination of lilac, lavender, pink, red, and blue; and the tub was wonderful for each and every soak that I took in it every night! When at the house, we all basically lived int he courtyard: eating breakfast, lunch and dinner there, playing on a huge orange outdoor cushion, and attempting to keep Alexandra from biting Sebastian, Sebastian from poking Luke in the eyes, and Luke from wailing all the live-long day.
Saturday, our drive down, consisted of 9 looooong hours in the car [a Volvo SUV] packed to the extreme. Alexandra watched no less than 6 Dora the Explorer episodes on the in-car DVD player, and at least 2 Little Einsteins, 1 Handy Manny and 1 Backyardigans on Jennifer's iPhone. Sebastian enjoyed the shows as well, and slept for an hour and a half [unfortunately, this was before the long lunch break]. We stopped and stopped and stopped for those road-side potty stops that I remember from my childhood, and stopped again for gas, lunch and nursing the baby...
Sunday was a great day for me, with having it off, I slept in, ate fresh pastries from our bakery neighbors on the sunlit but shaded courtyard and went to the beach for 6 hours with a good book and some found Elles and Vogues. I spent each morning with the kids for a couple of hours, and then just with the baby, Luke, while Jen and Luis took the older two to some fun sporting adventure. Lunch, then I was off. I alternated my afternoons either napping and reading at the beach, or napping and reading in my fabulously tucked away bed.
I had two delicious dinners out, Sunday evening and Friday evening. The first, at a tasty little restaurant at the port-side, Le Belem. I had a pot of mussels steamed in Charente creamy suace [basically cream. butter, white wine, maybe some lemon grass], a vegetable plate with broccoli, potatoes and stuffed tomatoes, and a nice local rose wine. The second, at Le Skipper [I almost didn't go due to the grade-A dorky name] I enjoyed another local rose wine, a yummy fish bisque, a platter of assorted fish on pickled cabbage, and a lovely frozen tiramisu.
The car ride back to Paris the following week consisted of one screaming infant, one screaming toddler and one major detour in which the appropriate highway exit was forgotten once, and forgone another. We made it back in 6 collective pieces [that's one for each parent, child, and yours truly].
Since returning, I have moved completely out of the bedroom I have called mine for the past year and packed all but two weeks of clothing and toiletries into those huge checked bags that can no longer weigh more than 23 kilos, and the second costs me 44€ at that. What a whirlwind it is going to be! Packing has been really overwhelming and stressful. I am having to ship an 11-lb. box back home, as I don't have space for the clothes that it contains. This is all after donating 3 garbage bags full of clothes and shoes, mind you. I have wayyy too much stuff! But to me, at this simplified point after the donation runs, everything I am keeping is 'that cute top from Paris' or 'that dress that I can where to work [from Paris]' or housewares and investments that I plan to enjoy until I have daughters, nieces, and granddaughters to give them to. With my three packed suitcases, I am now in the guest room for the next four nights before our vacation to Provence, and three nights after.
Sarah, the au pair for 2010-2011, arrives tomorrow evening! I am looking forward to meeting her, helping her to get settled, showing her around and walking her through logistical steps that I had to navigate on my own way back in September of '09.
More to come after Provence!
Recommended reading: A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Lisbon.
I think that a little fighting ation, treason, plotting, romance and conspiracy very much add up to a much better touristic experience. For example, in visiting London, I read The Other Boleyn Girl, about King Henry VIII and his court. It gave recognition to the Tower, where Anne Boleyn was beheaded, and perespective to the palaces in and around the city.
I was really fortunate to get to spend this last weekend in Lisbon, Portugal and so I read a book called The Last Kabbalist of Lisbon. It was about the expulsion of Jews from Lisbon and the giant massacre that took place at the turn of the 16th century. The focus of the story is on a man who is murdered at the time of these riots, but actually removed from the rioting and massacre itself. His nephew, the protagonist, seeks to solve the mystery set in the famous historical locations around Lisbon. It really created a vantage point for me in tihs instance, since there isn't much that i knew about Lisbon and its history prior to my visit and reading of this novel.
I arrived in Lisbon Saturday morning, from where I took the local bus into town. My only grievance with this entire trip was that the bus stops [and tram stops] were not at all clearly marked. Some weren't marked at all! The general idea is that you board this bus, mostly with locals, that does not have a site map or a list of stops that the bus will make. Thus, even if you know which stop you were at last, you have no way of knowing which one comes next! I was fortunate that the stop I needed, Picoas [pronounced pee-co-osh] was labeled. albeit in Times New Roman size 12...
I was able to find my hostel, Unreal Hostel, and get settled in to my bunk in an 8-person dorm. From my reconnaisance, at least 2 roommates were guys [judging by shoes] and I guessed one was either old or military, in that his bed was made to a T. I ate some PB&J I had brought from Paris, secured some maps from the front desk and headed out.
It was a picturesque walk from my hostel: really cool building with murals that stretched for their entire sides, the Murano mansion, and the Marques Pombal memorial statue. I turned down Avenida da Liberdade, which guidebooks called comparable to the Champs Elysees of Paris. Well, I beg to differ - the two streets have nothing in common! Champs Elysees is pretentious and touristy; whereas Avenida da Liberdade had tree lined pathways wide enough for groups to pass one another, fountains and some cafes and shops. Obviously, I much preferred the avenida.
I walked and walked and walked, and ended up on the Baixa Chiado, a cool 'lower' neighborhood. There are 7 giant hills that make up Lisbon, and though I am still a bit sketchy on the details of the topography of Lisbon, I am pretty sure this means that this neighborhood is on the side or at the bottom of a hill, versus atop one. I chose a cool cafe with a lovely terrace to enjoy a Coca Lite [I NEVER liked diet Coke at home, but here for some reason I do... weird]. After sitting and reading and people watching for a while, I strolled further on until coming across the main port, Cais do Sodre. I walked along the port for a bit, and then up to the Centre Comerical, where I found a cool market. I thought about buying a cool platter from an old lady that was hand painted in a marbled way, but I wasn't really into many of her color schemes, unfortunately. I have a vision of serving some fabulous hors d'oeurves on a lovely platter from somewhere exotic, but I guess it won't be from Lisbon.
Then I found the Se Cathedral, and jumped on the tram after a quick tour. I knew this was the tram I neded to be on to get ot the 5th century castle atop the tallest hill in Lisbon. But have I mentioned yet how bus and tram stops are not at all marked? We pulled up to a beautiful lookout point where bougainevillas [flowers] crested a wall which framed a stunning view of the sea below. I should have folowed my instinct to get off here, at least to take photos at this view, but alas, i stayed aboard the good ship Lollipop in assumption that a huge tourist spot such as the castle would be marked, and this one was clearly not. I was wrong.
I finally alighted from the blasted tram at the foot of the hill upon whihch sits the castle. I was not about to retry the tram system so I settled in to a nice uphill hike. About an hour later, completely drenched with sweat, my feet aching [it's ok - I carry ibuprofen at all times now], I made it! On the path though, I stumbled upon a gregarious group of German tourists who decided that I knew what I was doing, and that of all smart ieas, they should follow me to the castle! At first they were covert, following me around corners, then stopping for photos until they saw another turn which I was about to take. It made it more fun though; and eventually I asked them if they too were attempting to find the castle, and together we just walked up and up until eventualy we couldn't walk up anymore, and lo and behold there was the castle!
Afterwards, I was so pooped all I could focus on was the forthcoming shower that I needed to scrub off the grime of the city, eight layers of dried sweat and airplane germs from the morning. Arrving back at my hostel, I met the first of my roommates, Flaurent, and could barely compose myself to speak in French - that's how focused on showering I had become!
Clean and refreshed, I was able to now conduct a decent conversation with my French dorm-mate. He is a airplane mechanic in the French Air Force, and we had a good chat. It was also nice getting to know him, since he then took me out for dinner, and together we explored the Bairro Alto, famous for its night life and bar scene.
Sunday I explored Belem, where the Tower of Belem and the Mosteiro [Monastery] dot the famous landscape here. It was really neat to see, and the architecture of the monastery was stunning. I also really enjoyed the gardens there and the Archeological Museum. Though I do think that one of my very favorite things about being in Europe is the happenstance markets that seem to pop up everywhere! I love finding these, and the one I stumbled upon this morning was a treasure trove for the beautiful hand-painted tiles rescued from demolition projects around the city.
Sunday afternoon was a lazy one spent at the beach, of course after a minor ticket-office fiasco, and generally I enjoyed myself amongst the bajillion other sunbathers and teens playing soccer and volleyball, and the kids hooting on vuvuzelas and running by and kicking sand on my face. : )
All in all, I am grateful for a weekend away, and I give Lisbon a genuine gig'em!
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Brocante.
Walking around town with Eliza and Kitty, both au pairs here, I came to realize how much I did not want to accumulate so much stuff like this. I know in most cases things are necessary, at least for a time being. But this was truly overwhelming to see - shoes, clothes, collections, antiques, games, junk, and more. I am glad I was able to see it, but it started off a renewed vow to not buy any more stuff while I am here.
And it also incited a bit of a panic to begin organizing for packing - which of course I am procrastinating about.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Fête de la Musique.
To celebrate, about 25 years ago, the French Ministry of Culture decided to organize a free, outdoor musical extravaganza. It has now spread and is all over the world!
I went with a friend Kitty, and we toured mostly the 5th and 6th arrondisements. We started at the islands [there are two islands in the Seine that house Notre Dame and the count as the epicenter of downtown], had a plastic cup of shared wine on the river quai and then headed on. These arrondisements are the Latin Quarter and St. Germain de Pres, respectively. The Latin Quarter is where all of the universities are, and thus home to a large artsy-frenchy student population. Here we saw a couple of 20-something rockers playing Iron Man [ACDC], some Latin Flava jiving, and a Beatles/Rolling Stones cover band of 50-somethings. Over in the 6th we saw a great Rockabilly 3-piece band; and man am I sucker for the stand-up bass. I love it! They played Johnny Cash and a couple doo-wops.
It was definitely a great experience, even for someone like me who enjoys music, but is definitely not an officionado. It just brings to mind people like my sister, Pamela, and brother-in-law, Kyle, who really are musical officionados - and how much MORE fun it could have been with such cool folks.
All-night Art Festivals [think back to October with Nuit Blanche] and Music Festivals like this one really do strike me as having become a Parisian. [To a degree: I know my way around - I ditched carrying a map in May, but I am not exactly as surly as necessary to fool some Parisians.] But truly, THIS is culture. This is what makes it Paris, and I am so blessed and so grateful for such awesome memories to keep and to share.
Thanks for reading.
http://www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr/site-2010
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Le Cote d'Azur.
This past weekend, I had the fabulous opportunity to travel with a good friend, Amber. After about three weeks of saying we were going to travel this weekend, and procrastinating actually booking a trip, we got together Monday at McDonald’s – free wifi throughout Paris – to plan. However, it was not until Tuesday that I actually booked our trains, and Thursday until we found somewhere to sleep!
I really enjoy last minute travel; a go by the seat of your pants excursion always makes me feel accomplished and excited. Granted, lack of planning in Costa Rica [really my only other intranational or international travel experience] didn’t require much anyway. There, you went to one of 2 bus stops, bags in hand, to buy a ticket. I never once booked a hostel beforehand; often times we just walked the road until one looked nice enough and was within our $10 a night budget! Europe is quite different; but nonetheless exhilarating.
We took an overnight train to Nice, which is on the Cote d’Azur [Mediterranean] of France. As Amber aptly described this experience in her facebook photo album, this was the longest night of our lives! We were fortunate to book first class seats, as they were only 7 euros more than regular seats. So we did get a few more inches to each side and a few more options as to where to try to squish our bodies into a horizontal position. I am not sure what I was expecting. I knew when I chose our seats that they were in fact chairs and not beds, like on some sleeper trains. However, I guess I anticipated having some sort LazyBoy-esque recliner with footrest. And probably provided mini-pillows and blankets in plastic, like on airplanes. No such luck. It was literally negative two degrees in that train compartment! I had packed for the beach, what was I supposed to do? I put on slacks under my dress, a sweater over it and used a jacket to cover up with. I contemplated using another beachy cover-up I had brought to wrap around my feet as mock socks… but couldn’t find the motivation to move from the fetal position that provided the most warmth I could muster.
Meh.
Getting into Nice was great though, and all in all it was worth a sleepless night to arrive at destination at 8:30am and have the full day ahead! Amber fabulously booked us a four-star hotel on lastminute.fr [.com for all of you stateside] that had been reduced to 50% off, making it cheaper than or as cheap as all of the hostels we had looked at. But instead of a hostel, we got a pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, gym, and complimentary bathrobes and slippers! Heck yes! We went to brunch while they finished preparing our room, and then after a quick clean up, headed back to the train station to figure out how to get to Monaco! 5 euros, people. It cost 5 euros to get to the most fabulous place I have encountered in a long while! Yachts five stories high! Ornate architecture and sunlit pathways; a statuesque tropical garden in honor of Grace Kelly, and historic Roman ruins. Lunch on terrace with white couches and umbrellas, gelati and the Monte Carlo casino! Ferraris everywhere, Porsches in abundance… it was opulence to a degree I have never seen before. And though I loved visiting for the day, my friend I am here to witness to you how glad I am that wealth is not one of my ambitions. I hope to pay bills and be responsible and have enough to be a little care-free, it’s true – but I also genuinely hope I never find myself in such a fashion that I have so much money and spend it on things like five-story yachts and Ferraris and Porsches. For it is harder for a rich man to enter the kingdom of heaven than to pass a camel through the eye of a needle. [That’s scripture, y’all – Mark 10:25, Luke 18:25, AND Matthew 19:24.]
That evening we had dinner in a large pedestrian square, the Place Garibaldi, and had one of the best salads ever. I promise to duplicate it for you when I am on my visiting tour back in the states!
Sunday morning, we woke up ridiculously early and headed out to find the port [which we discovered the previous night, for before finding our dinner restaurant, we toured the beaches and monuments on the coast in Nice] from where we would be taking our cruise to St. Tropez.
I almost don’t even want to describe the next hour for you… physically and emotionally too painful! [Mostly just physically.]
- I realize that I grabbed the map of Monaco and not the map of Nice we needed to find the port in a timely manner. [Don’t judge harshly – have you ever accumulated the ‘travel purse’? It’s hideous and includes about 35 pamphlets and 17 maps; business cards, menus and ticket stubs.]
- We don’t find the port in a timely manner.
- I am gaining blisters on the soles of my feet due to walking quickly and so far [we turned 15 minutes into 45] in impractical shoes. [Again, don’t judge harshly – I was planning on sipping mimosas on a cruise to St. Tropez and then loafing on a beach or at a lounge bar, ok?]
We made it to the port eventually, with about 10 minutes before they untied the boat from the dock. Thank you Lord, again, for providing us with locals to give us directions!
The cruise was a fun time. It was a bit chilly as the morning air had not yet warmed and the clouds were fairly dense still. But it was definitely worth the goose bumps to sit on top of the boat to see humongous mansions built into the cliffs and sides of Nice. We sailed out to St. Marguerite island, and saw the prison in which the Man in the Iron Mask was held… creepy. We viewed Cannes and its incredible sealine architecture, and stopped to let further tourists aboard. Then on to St. Tropez!
We docked, saw the beach, some ruins, laid out on the ruins – remember the early morning I mentioned? Totally led to both Amber and I snoring on a seawall behind a Rolex event. Awesome! We shopped a little, walked up the docks in hopes of a yachting invite [didn’t happen: ( ], had a drink, dipped into the Mediterranean and hopped back on our cruise. Once back and cleaned up we hit up gelati [for dinner…yikes] and then strolled the Promenade des Anglais, on which can be found the Belle Epoque hotels, including the Negresco. The Negresco is a beautiful hotel with gilded edges and a green and pink domed roof; unfortunately for us it was completely under construction.
I have been settling back into Paris nicely, and enjoying no longer being the palest I have been since I was 14. Although the explosion of suitcase on my floor is just waiting for that opportune moment when I will be productive… might as well be now, right?
Chateau de Vincennes and Parc Floral de Paris.
Just behind the Chateau was the Parc Floral de Paris, and it was absolutely stunning! Gorgeous blooms, wonderful scents, and we even got to see a peacock display for a passing female! We had a good lunch, though mine was the worst hamburger I have had in France. Bummer, too, as I was really looking forward to a gourmet burger with medium rare minced sirloin and some fancy stinky cheese with some fancy spicy mustard… yum. What I got: sesame seed bun, waaayyyy past well-done beef, with a slice of I KID YOU NOT American cheese. DISAPPOINTING! But it was still fun, and even the most mature of the ladies in our group, probably at 60, was the youngest in the entire café of blue-hairs!
What a neat part of town that is, and it's been on my list to check out for the longest time! Plus, upon discovery of the outdoor ampitheatre in the Park, I will definitely be headed out for some after work free concerts!
Workin' Hard for the Money.
Goodness gracious, though. That boy is sooo mischievous! Terrible twos, for sure. Jen asked if I could possibly take on a few more hours, as she is not sure about handling Sebastian and Luke at home on her own – especially when she isn’t physically 100% yet! So I am now working 12hours on Fridays – 8am to 8pm with only naptime for a break. It’s definitely like I am a mom, and let me tell ya – toddlers are rough. I have a new found respect for those beautiful people in my life like my Mom and one Miss Alyssa Kreutter who have managed multiple two and three year-olds in preschool. Thank you and now I get what a lot of your stories meant!
