London. Was. GREAT.
Friends and Family,
For those of you who hadn't known, I have been thinking that D.C. would make a fun post-Paris habitat. Well, it's still on the block, but man oh man, London is definitely next on the list.
We rented a flat at 7-8 Manson Place, a pretty hip side street in South Kensington, which was wonderfully close to The Natural History Museum, Victoria & Albert, The Science Museum, Kensington Palace and Hyde Park. We were blessed with a beautiful sunshiney week, with temperatures in the 60's, and rain only on Sunday.
So, in the spirit of a journal entry here is my week in London.
Monday:
Taking the Eurostar train fro Paris to London was a lot of fun. I only had to help with the kids a little bit, so I was able to enjoy the views, my "sleeping on trains and buses" playlist that I made in anticipation of traveling through Europe, and reading The Other Boleyn Girl. Absolutely fabulous book. I have heard the movie stank, and I believe it, but goodness gracious, if you haven't studied up on historical fiction, this is the place to start. [It's my favorite genre anyway.] I definitely look forward to similar trips by train in the future. Apparently flying here is cheaper, which I will probably do here and there, but I have always loved train rides. I think the first one I remember enjoying was when I was 15 and took an overnight from Paris to Zurich, and then after that when my family took an all-day trai from Fairbanks to Denali Park in Alaska. Super cool, and I hope to repeat the experience.
Getting into town was fun - I really enjoy taking longer cab rides when I arrive places [granted, if i am super tired from the flight or hungry, not so much] in order to take some breaths and not have to worry or plan anything, and also to get to see what's around me. That night for dinner we had the classic fish and chips with a John Smith smooth ale at the Zetland Arms Pub. The food was passable, but I have never before had a beer that was so flat. I mean, the carbonation is half the fun, right?
Tuesday:
Jennifer and I left with the kids to head to the Museum of Natural History, but as England apparently also had a school holiday, the lines were winding through the courtyard, out the gate and down the streets in order to get in. So, we bypassed that and headed to the Victoria & Albert Museum. [Just one block over.] V & A is incredible. Maybe that will be a place to look into jobs for the future - some sort of behind the scenes or marketing for the museum? That'd be great! I only had an hour or so while Jen took the kids to explore, so I checked out the most important exhibits: the famous fashion section and the jewelery one. The Materials & Techniques: Fashion exhibit was off the charts cool. Starting from British shoes of the 16th century and how pumps have evolved to today was neat. Men's suits, men and women's states of undress, women's ball gowns, cocktail dresses, and famous couture were studded throughout. And taking all of this in with the obvious design students in their own funky styles and sketchpads added to the experience. In fact, there was a part of the exhibit that showcased some up-and-coming designers and their design innovations [like plastic shoulder pads] from London Schools of Design. The jewelery room was neat, too - though I was reprimanded for taking photos. Darn.
After lunch I had the afternoon to go to Kensington Palace. This palace was constructed in the 16th century as a country home for joint monarchs William III and Mary II. This exhibit took me through the state rooms, various bedchambers, privy cambers, and outer rooms of the king and queen. [Having just read The Other Boleyn Girl kind of made these all come alive.] This is also the palace in which Princess Diana and Prince Charles lived, and where she lived after their divorce, and where her funeral cortege began [ended at Westminster Abbey]. Appropriately thus, there was an exhibit of her famous gowns and a short history for her. In addition, the Last Debutantes exhibit was great. They had displayed the history of being presented at court [dating back to those Queen's Ladies in Waiting at the Palace] and the end of the tradition in 1957. Sweet 50's dresses were displayed, a few common etiquette lessons, and even a waltzing presentation. Afterwards I headed around Hyde Park [the largest park in London that used to be a game reserve for the King's hunting trips] to check out Prince Albert's Memorial and Royal Albert Hall. Both were neat, and it was good to spend some time in the fresh air before going back to the apartment for the kids' evening routine.
Wednesday:
Learning our lesson, Jennifer and I decided to be a little bit strategic for the Museum of Natural History. Meaning, at 9:30 I went and stood in line until the doors opened, getting us into the museum at about 10:15 and with minimal bored-child-fussing in line. :) Then I got to explore the dinosaur exhibit, which was cool, but having been spoiled by my trip to the Smithsonian in D.C. in May, wasn't quite as impressive. However, the highlights were definitely the British takes on how dinosaurs become extinct. Theory No. 1: that they were abducted by aliens. Theory No. 2: whilst one dinosaur attempted to teach the game of cricket to the others, they all died of boredom. [Accompanying political cartoons can be found on facebook in the London Calling album.] The Human Biology exhibit was graphic. And I mean (porno)GRAPHIC. Yikes. [I thought of taking a picture to show how British presentation and American euphemism are nothing alike, but I couldn't bring myself to be seen taking a photo of the "conception" display!]
The new Darwin Centre, which had just opened in September displayed a couple of neat exhibits, where an artist had captured historical photographs of various emotions and explained how once could tell that a child was suffering by the "mouth widely opened in a peculiar manner, giving it a squarish shape." Who knew? There was also the vaguely offensive video projection showing an African man holding up an ape... again, British tastes are SO different from their American parallels. The Geological and Jewelery exhibit was again neat, and showcased a bunch of diamonds that in regular light sparkle as we know them to, and in ultraviolet light give off that cool glow-in-the-dark effect. The ecological exhibit showed a ring of an 800 year-old Seqouia tree, and the most magnificent part was just enjoying the architecture.
Then I left and had lunch in Parliament Square, between the House of Parliament [at the base of Big Ben and in sight of the London Eye] and Westminster Abbey. Both of these were closed, but it was still cool to get pictures and examine the outside. After some shopping and visiting at Harrod's, I went back to the apartment to grab those kiddos and we went to Princess Diana's [over-crowded] memorial playground.
Thursday:
Really fun day at Buckingham Palace. I visited the Queen's Gallery to see their brand-new exhibit The Conversation Piece. This was an exhibit of paintings revolving around the aesthetic lifestyle of living at court; they depicted parties, dances, the Queen's maids, the King's steeds, and for an artist who usually doesn't enjoy classical art that al begins to look the same, it was remarkably entertaining. Oh, and I picked up some fabulous postcards in the gift shop that are the Royal Family's family portrait - complete with awkward uncles and wayward children. I have some friends in mind who will probably enjoy the tacky-ness of these postcards as much as I do. :)
Friday:
At this point the only main attraction I had yet to visit was the Tower of London. Fabulous. And well worth the outrageous pricing. I know I probably should have known more about the Tower of London [apart from it's where they tortured and executed people] but history in American schools just doesn't do the rest of the world justice in it's notes. I hadn't realized that the Tower of London wasn't just one building like any other museum. It is actually a fortressed group of towers. One is the Bloody Tower, famous for it's torture; another is the White Tower which housed the Great Hall for balls and important meetings; the Beauchamp Tower was the prison; the Jewel House had been estates and other quarters; and there are even homes in which courtiers lived. [And that now the honored few families of the Yeoman Warders reside in. When the attraction closes and the tourists go home or to hotels, the people of the village actually live there and the Tower comes back alive with a completely new vibe.
The first tour [cool audio guide narrated by some famous Brit I hadn't heard of] told me all about the water gate that was used not only to hold out boats approaching from the river, but also was later named the Traitor gate, through which traitors and enemies of the state could easily be transported to the Bloody Tower where they would be tortured for information or confessions by use of varying disgusting measures. Really interesting to read about, until you get to the part where your mind gives you a mental picture - or worse, a mental sound effect. [Shiver.]
Did you know that King Henry the VIII once said that the day there were no longer ravens at the Tower of London is the day that it would crumble and London would be no more? Pretty heavy prediction, and so now ravens are kept in cages just outside the White Tower in order to maintain the status quo, not that they're superstitious or anything.
Inside the White Tower the curators had opened a new exhibit of two sets of armor that were made for and worn by King Henry VIII himself. One was from when he was a younger man, and one was from shortly before his death at age 55, when it was apparent that he had become quite rotund. It was a fantastic showing of armour, weapons, and even some fancy schmancy ballroom type clothing. Best part: the collection was called 'Henry VIII: Dressed to Kill.' Chuckle, chuckle.
The Crown Jewels were incredible! I had to wait in line for about 15 minutes just to get into the jewel hall, but once inside, it really wasn't all that crowded, which was fabulous. I think that was why they had the line outside, and it allowed me to go by the crowns and the orb and the scepters a few times, as well as to step back and read their information. Did you know that you view the Crown Jewels on a conveyor belt? I mean, it definitely makes sense, as otherwise I can imagine how plenty of tourists would stand gawking and not give others the chance to see, but it's still a bit comical that they literally move you along like that.
Saturday:
Saturday I went to Holland Park, and stopped into to two "charity shops" along the way. These are basically thrift stores, but with high quality stuff, and the proceeds benefit a specific charity - I guess similar in a way to Goodwill, but also along the lines of CARE or something. The first shop had some adorable polka-dot 50's era [but brand new] shoes, but of course they were not my size. It got me in the door though, and I bought a cool wrap sweater, a fabulous beaded gypsy belt, and a super cheap trashy little chick-lit novel about a woman in Manhattan who starts a business about getting kindergartners into private schools... it was entertaining enough. And hey, my purchase helped out a philanthropy dedicated to fighting women's poverty in Romania by contributing to the building of a new wave of agriculturalism. The second shop benefitted a HIV/AIDS research fund, and I got a wonderful new coat - it's pea green and snappy. :)
Sunday it rained all day, so I took the time to go back to sleep and read, and not leave the apartment. It was a really great vacation, and of course it was also work, but the kids have never behaved better, and the weather was wonderful. Everyone spoke English [which I forgot how much I enjoy that]
We came back to Le Vesinet Monday, and a quick thanks to Papa and Anne, Mom and Dad, Pam and Kyle and Lois, and Alyssa for sweet birthday gifts and cards or letters. That all made for a really great rest of my Monday.
Well, I am headed to Normandy for the weekend in about an hour and a half, so I better ske-daddle and get my stuff together.
More to come, and much love!